Feb 2008: Built the first motor 351 Windsor For details Go Here
March 2008: Bought the Truck Go
April 2008: Worked a little on the wiring and the rust spots in the body Go
May 2008: Converted it to power disk brakes removed the entire front end off a 1973 ford truck that
already had disk brakes got the whiole front from Pull-A-Part junk yard for $150 After I got installed I purchased
new calipers and brake pads and also new brake lines to make this all work correcetly. Got the info to do this from
June 2008: Rewired the truck with new wiring harness for more details Go
July 2008: Built the tailgate for details Go
Aug 2008: Worked on the interior for more details Go
Sept 2008: Worked on the interior's sound system for more details Go
Oct 2008 - Dec 2008: Did nothing
25 Jan. 2009: I Think I have the leak finally stopped and it cranks now and runs like a dream. It had a
bad Rotary button. That was making it act like it was flooding and also like it was out of gas.
29 Jan.2009: I carried it over to the Transmission shop to have all the linkages adjusted. So now I am
waiting on that. After they are thru then it goes to the exhaust shop for a complete
3 Feb. 2009: I went to exhaust shop with her and had a new exhaust system put on
10 Feb. 2009: Purchased a tool box for the bed
March 2009: The problem continues with the Motor it still leaks in Cylinder 1 so carried the entire
truck to the Machine shop he tore into it and finally found the culprit a crack in Cylinder 1 bore it out and
sleeved it and put it in the truck and now runs great.
April 2009: Worked on the Differential had to replace gears for more details Go
May 2010 - June 2010: Nothing
July 2010: A lot of time sitting and driving. I have done absolutely nothing else to
2010: Changed the seats and added a console for
details Go here
it quit running come to find out the MSD street fire box somehow fried the distributer so I replaced the
distributor and she runs well again.
2010: Changed the steering column for details Go Here
Nov. 2010: same thing another fried distributor removed MSD box and old distributor and replaced it
with a GM style one wire distributor and now she runs great again.
Dec. 2010: Truck want crank it drags real badly like it has a bad
battery or starter. Had battery and starter tested all test ok redone all the grounds but she still drags until it
winds over a few times then she fires up and runs great until it gets warm then if you shut it off it acts like
there is no fire there and you have to wind and wind her over for few minutes then it will finally fire back
Jan.2011: did nothing
Feb - Mar 2011: Installed AC unit in truck for details go
April 2011: Truck still drags when you try and crank it the first time
and also after it get warm. Starting to believe something is wrong with crank or the crank bearings that is causing
the drag after all it did acquired a lot of water in the beginning because of the cracked cylinder. I think I am
going to rebuild one of the other Windsor motors I have and set it down in there.
May 2011: since I first got the truck the passenger door does not close
properly been to 3 different body shops so far no one can seem to figure out why the door is that way. It almost
seems like it is too big for the truck because of the gap distance between the door and the cab. But I measured all
the other doors on these old trucks and they are the same size I don’t know unless the cab is warped somehow. There
is a body shop on the to work that paints a lot of old cars called Perfect Reflections in Birmingham, Al. so I will
try them next and see what they say.
June 2011: Nothing going on
July 2011: Built 302 Boss motor for details Go Here
2011: Did Nothing
Sept 2011: More on the 302 motor Go Here
Sept 2011: Still on the 302 along with the headers and over heating
problem Go Here
17 Sept 2011: Got
new motor installed in truck. The Headers I ordered for it would not fit contacted Summit Racing and sent me
a different set of long tube headers still no luck ended up going thru 6 different sets of long tube headers
and sill no luck on the fit. So I read a few articles on Fordification.com and they all suggested Sanderson
30 Sept 2011: So I
ordered the first set FC2 that said they were for up to 1972 Ford trucks they did not fit. So I researched all
the specs on the rest of their headers and decided to go with the FC4 headers.
05 Oct 2011: Well the
driver side fit but the passenger side did not so I contacted Sanderson again and they sent me a FC3 headers for
the passenger(right) side still had to do a couple of real small modifications to it but it worked and was
finally able to crank it.
18 Oct. 2011: Engine
is ready to crank finally. Tried to crank and just fired a few times so rechecked number 1 cylinder to ensure it
was still top dead center and as I was watching the distributor turn I realized it was moving counter clockwise
and noticed the plug wires were in a clockwise manner. So I rewired it and tried to crank it again and it fired
right up and was purring beautifully until it started heating up and the temp climbed to 180 and then it jumped
straight to 220 and stayed there for about 10 minutes and then dropped back to 180. Then it started to climb
again it went to 250 and started pushing all the water out of the engine back up thru the
19 Oct. 2011: After
some research on this issue I was informed that either it is a bad thermostat or a air pocket in the block. So
after extensive warming up and adding water numerous of times it finally stopped over heating so it was a air
pocket in the block what a pain.
20 Oct 2011: Still
runs a little warm when it is held up around 2000 RPM’s for any length of time assuming there is still a small
air pocket in it. Also need to remove the header on the right side so I can paint it will be doing that
21 Oct 2011: Removed
header and painted it waitng for it to dry so I can reinstall it tomorrow.
22 Oct 2011: Replaced
the header and went back to see why it is running hot. I removed the Thermostat completely after checking it
twice and with it out it still runs a little hot if you run it higher than 2000 RPM as long as it is idleing it
runs smooth and does not run hot. I am gonna try and work with today and see if I can get any more air out of
it. Then I will check the water pump itself.
23 Oct 2011: Worked a
little with the heat problem still no luck. Had other things to do so no time to really work on
Nov. 2011 thru March
2012: Worked a little o the heat problem still no fix
April 2012 thru July
2012: Worked on the heat problem found out from http://www.fordification.com that most of problem was caused by air
pockets in the 302 block so I spent extensive amount of time removing the air pockets from the motor. I finally
think all the air is out because now when it idles for a long period it will run hot but if I drive it down the
road it will cool back down to normal. Well what I have discovered now is that when I put in the A/C unit I had
to change radiators and I went from a 19" radiator to 27" radiator but I am still using the same electric fan
which is a good fan it pumps 3000cfm's but it only covers 16" of the radiator. So I am replacing the fan with a
dual 27" electric fan assembly so that should eliminate the heat problem all together.
July 2012: I have
made and installed some lights to the bed of my truck, there where the 2 little holes are at the end by the
tailgate. For more details Go Here
Aug.2012 to October
2012: Worked on getting it tuned and running correctly and then found out after a few attemps it runs
like crap with automatic transmission and the 3:00 gears in the differential. I am gonna have to change the
gears out to at least 4:11 maybe 4:56 and a different transmission.
November 2012 to December
2012: Nothing was done to the truck except crank it and let it warm up to keep everything
Jan. 2013: Changed
the gear ratio in the Differential to 4:11 and she runs a lot better but still not as good as I would like. So I
think I am going to build a big block and put in there and use the 302 BOSS for my little 1960 Ranchero
with a T5 manual transmission.