Francis family private vehicle restoration

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Feb 2008: Built the first motor 351 Windsor For details Go Here

March 2008: Bought the Truck Go Here

April 2008: Worked a little on the wiring and the rust spots in the body Go Here

May 2008: Converted it to power disk brakes removed the entire front end off a 1973 ford truck that already had disk brakes got the whiole front from Pull-A-Part junk yard for $150 After I got installed I purchased new calipers and brake pads and also new brake lines to make this all work correcetly. Got the info to do this from http:\\www.fordification.com

June 2008: Rewired the truck with new wiring harness for more details Go Here

July 2008: Built the tailgate for details Go Here

Aug 2008: Worked on the interior for more details Go Here

Sept 2008: Worked on the interior's sound system for more details Go Here

Oct 2008 - Dec 2008: Did nothing

25 Jan. 2009: I Think I have the leak finally stopped and it cranks now and runs like a dream. It had a bad Rotary button. That was making it act like it was flooding and also like it was out of gas. Weird!!

29 Jan.2009: I carried it over to the Transmission shop to have all the linkages adjusted. So now I am waiting on that. After they are thru then it goes to the exhaust shop for a complete exhaust.

 

3 Feb. 2009: I went to exhaust shop with her and had a new exhaust system put on it.

 

10 Feb. 2009: Purchased a tool box for the bed

 

       

 

March 2009: The problem continues with the Motor it still leaks in Cylinder 1 so carried the entire truck to the Machine shop he tore into it and finally found the culprit a crack in Cylinder 1 bore it out and sleeved it and put it in the truck and now runs great.

 

April 2009: Worked on the Differential had to replace gears for more details Go Here

 

May 2010 - June 2010: Nothing Happened

 

July 2010: A lot of time sitting and driving. I have done absolutely nothing else to her.

 

Aug 2010: Changed the seats and added a console for details Go here

 

Sept 2010: it quit running come to find out the MSD street fire box somehow fried the distributer so I replaced the distributor and she runs well again. 

 

Oct 2010: Changed the steering column for details Go Here

 

Nov. 2010: same thing another fried distributor removed MSD box and old distributor and replaced it with a GM style one wire distributor and now she runs great again.

 

 

Dec. 2010: Truck want crank it drags real badly like it has a bad battery or starter. Had battery and starter tested all test ok redone all the grounds but she still drags until it winds over a few times then she fires up and runs great until it gets warm then if you shut it off it acts like there is no fire there and you have to wind and wind her over for few minutes then it will finally fire back up.

 

Jan.2011: did nothing

 

Feb - Mar 2011: Installed AC unit in truck for details go here Go Here

 

April 2011: Truck still drags when you try and crank it the first time and also after it get warm. Starting to believe something is wrong with crank or the crank bearings that is causing the drag after all it did acquired a lot of water in the beginning because of the cracked cylinder. I think I am going to rebuild one of the other Windsor motors I have and set it down in there.

 

May 2011: since I first got the truck the passenger door does not close properly been to 3 different body shops so far no one can seem to figure out why the door is that way. It almost seems like it is too big for the truck because of the gap distance between the door and the cab. But I measured all the other doors on these old trucks and they are the same size I don’t know unless the cab is warped somehow. There is a body shop on the to work that paints a lot of old cars called Perfect Reflections in Birmingham, Al. so I will try them next and see what they say.

 

June 2011: Nothing going on

 

July 2011: Built 302 Boss motor for details Go Here

 

Aug 2011: Did Nothing 

 

Sept 2011: More on the 302 motor Go Here

 

Sept 2011: Still on the 302 along with the headers and over heating problem Go Here

 

17 Sept 2011: Got new motor installed in truck. The Headers I ordered for it would not fit contacted Summit Racing and sent me a different set of long tube headers still no luck ended up going thru 6 different sets of long tube headers and sill no luck on the fit. So I read a few articles on Fordification.com and they all suggested Sanderson headers. 

30 Sept 2011: So I ordered the first set FC2 that said they were for up to 1972 Ford trucks they did not fit. So I researched all the specs on the rest of their headers and decided to go with the FC4 headers. 

05 Oct 2011: Well the driver side fit but the passenger side did not so I contacted Sanderson again and they sent me a FC3 headers for the passenger(right) side still had to do a couple of real small modifications to it but it worked and was finally able to crank it. 

18 Oct. 2011: Engine is ready to crank finally. Tried to crank and just fired a few times so rechecked number 1 cylinder to ensure it was still top dead center and as I was watching the distributor turn I realized it was moving counter clockwise and noticed the plug wires were in a clockwise manner. So I rewired it and tried to crank it again and it fired right up and was purring beautifully until it started heating up and the temp climbed to 180 and then it jumped straight to 220 and stayed there for about 10 minutes and then dropped back to 180. Then it started to climb again it went to 250 and started pushing all the water out of the engine back up thru the radiator. 

19 Oct. 2011: After some research on this issue I was informed that either it is a bad thermostat or a air pocket in the block. So after extensive warming up and adding water numerous of times it finally stopped over heating so it was a air pocket in the block what a pain. 

20 Oct 2011: Still runs a little warm when it is held up around 2000 RPM’s for any length of time assuming there is still a small air pocket in it. Also need to remove the header on the right side so I can paint it will be doing that today. 

21 Oct 2011: Removed header and painted it waitng for it to dry so I can reinstall it tomorrow. 

22 Oct 2011: Replaced the header and went back to see why it is running hot. I removed the Thermostat completely after checking it twice and with it out it still runs a little hot if you run it higher than 2000 RPM as long as it is idleing it runs smooth and does not run hot. I am gonna try and work with today and see if I can get any more air out of it. Then I will check the water pump itself. 

23 Oct 2011: Worked a little with the heat problem still no luck. Had other things to do so no time to really work on it. 

Nov. 2011 thru March 2012: Worked a little o the heat problem still no fix 

April 2012 thru July 2012: Worked on the heat problem found out from http://www.fordification.com that most of problem was caused by air pockets in the 302 block so I spent extensive amount of time removing the air pockets from the motor. I finally think all the air is out because now when it idles for a long period it will run hot but if I drive it down the road it will cool back down to normal. Well what I have discovered now is that when I put in the A/C unit I had to change radiators and I went from a 19" radiator to 27" radiator but I am still using the same electric fan which is a good fan it pumps 3000cfm's but it only covers 16" of the radiator. So I am replacing the fan with a dual 27" electric fan assembly so that should eliminate the heat problem all together.

July 2012: I have made and installed some lights to the bed of my truck, there where the 2 little holes are at the end by the tailgate. For more details Go Here

Aug.2012 to October 2012: Worked on getting it tuned and running correctly and then found out after a few attemps it runs like crap with automatic transmission and the 3:00 gears in the differential. I am gonna have to change the gears out to at least 4:11 maybe 4:56 and a different transmission. 

November 2012 to December 2012: Nothing was done to the truck except crank it and let it warm up to keep everything loose. 

Jan. 2013: Changed the gear ratio in the Differential to 4:11 and she runs a lot better but still not as good as I would like. So I think I  am going to build a big block and put in there and use the 302 BOSS for my little 1960 Ranchero with a T5 manual transmission.